ZACK GRADY writes from Southern California. He reads cookbooks, but mostly, he just adds garlic and hot sauce.
By the time you are reading this, they will have already cleared out their closets in Japan. The first day in June is koromogae, clothes-changing day. No, they have not been wearing the same clothes since this day last year! Koromogae is the official putting-down of winter clothes in favor the lighter fabrics for hot weather, and it is said that everyone makes the fashion statement at the same time. This is the day that civil servants (and students) switch to lightweight summer uniforms, and being civil servants, they require a specific holiday to commemorate the occasion.